GES290 - Kobuleti Hotels, Georgia
In the summer of 2017, I headed off to the Caucasus to see what was there, it being one of the few areas of Europe i'd not been too. Georgia was my first port of call in the region, a country that has had a rough time of it since the break-up of the former Soviet Union. The republic had seperation issues with Ajara in the West, and Abkhazia in the East after the break-up. South Ossetia also seperated with the help of the Russian Army in 2008. Ajara rejoined Georgia, but Abkhazia didn't (another post covers this). I crossed from Turkey into the city of Batumi. Luckily a 'taxi' was waiting for me at the border, and charged me the national debt to get into Batumi itself. There I was able to enjoy such delicacies as an egg floating on melted cheese, surrounded by pastry, It was callled the Heart Attack or something.
I dragged my bloated carcas onto a mini-bus, or converted transit van for an accurate description. They're called a Marshrutka in this region, you'll be lucky to get a regular bus. I left Batumi for Kobuleti, and arrived under an hour later. My journey enlightened by the chat of local women weighed down with vegetables and non-descript objects in dull coloured carrier bags. There were some foreigners, but they were headed to the somewhat amusingly named city of Zugdidi, where I would be headed next.
Kobuleti used to be a popular seaside resort with Soviet clienetelle. However with the break-up of the Soviet Union, and internal strife, money became scarce. Soviet mismanagement of the sea from daming rivers, lead to the coastline retreating by a metre per year in the 1960s. There was also the joy of heavy metals and pollutants finding there way into the sea. At the time of writing, the town has been wracked with crippling unemployment. Kobuleti is described thus on it's Wikipedia page. "Kobuleti is known for its traditions, hospitality, climatic areas, mild subtropical climate, ionised maritime air, bright shining sun and warm sea. The unique sandy beach widely inclined to the sea is noted with its marvelous views beautified by sky-scraped endemic pine trees, eucalypts, bamboo, cypress grove, date and cocoa palms." You can see here how well the reality matches the description. It was taken in mid June. My main interest in the town is the number of abandoned skyscraping apartment blocks, two are visible in the picture below. Along with a local hipster and his single speed 'fixie' bike.
After dumping my gear at a hotel mid-way along the famed beach with it's unique sand, I headed off North to the furthest derelict hotel. The town wasn't completely deserted, there were people doing this that and the other at various shacks and huts dotted along. After dodging some agreesive looking cows, and angry looking dogs, I made it to the Northernmost hotel. It was never completed so remains nameless.
After ascending the scary as hell staircase, it was onto the roof for some views of the area. Looking South along Kobuleti's beach, and the start of the Caucasus Mountains.
The Stairs of Doom!
The insides were incomplete skeleton style, with evidence of some plastering having taken place.
Looking towards Russia (over the hills) and the Caucasus mountains. A lovely spot to chill out with a local beer.
At the middle part of the bay with it's bright shining sun and fine sandy beach, were two more abandoned hotels. There was no reason to climb both, and the one seen here (the other is hiding behind it) looked knackered. It also had some large chap making loud smashing noises somewhere on the upper floors, so I gave it a miss. I was interested in the rotund building in the foreground, and went for a look.
It turned out to be a swimming baths
It looked like it was built to be open to the elements, so it was almost complete in that respect.
Further down, yet another covered swimming pool, male and female dressing rooms on left and right.
A Greek/Roman style relief stuck on a wall.
This is the other hotel in the middle of the bay. It's the most complete of all the abandoned structures, and yet still abandoned. Most of the glass ground floor windows had been smashed, making entrance none too difficult.
The receiption area and lift entrances. Endless boxes lay about with materials for internal fitting.
The staircase and floors had varying levels of completion.
The restaurant on the upper floor.
Looking across to the skeleton-like middle hotel. Now used for communications. The Northernmost Hotel in the distance.
Looking South down the beach from the roof of the building. Below the restaurant/nightclub abandoned structure.
The sketeton hotel from the front looked far more complete than any other angle.
The abandoned restaurant/nightclub from the beach. The previous tower on the far left.
Inside the main hall.
The inner quadrangle. The building was so vast, it's hard to comprehend it was just a restuarant. It seemed to me more like a nightclub, used as a restaurant during the day.
The complex roof with a mixture of styles.
At the Southernmost tip of the Bay, before an estuary ends things. There was the last of the abandoned high rises. Unlike the others, a family had actually moved in. You can see windows on the 2nd floor (3rd floor for Americans).
I know a family lived here, as when I was about to ascend, a mother and two children swept in a head of me. It was getting dark now, and the stair well at the bottom had no natural light, so was pitch black. I saw no sign they were using torches, as i quietly ascended a few floors below them. I tried to remain as quiet as possible, as i passed the 2nd floor. It was then a steady climb up to the roof.
Looking out from the Southernmost hotel at dusk. There appears to be yet another large abandoned structure in the middle of the picture.
The town was full of half complete buildings, but only high rises were on the beach. This 5 floor structure with art deco flourishes was on the beach.
This 10 storey building looked like it was also abandoned, with no signs of life the two days I was here.
Deciding against some sunbathing on the fine sands, and maybe a dip in the warm sea. I headed back to the bus station, and grabbed another marshrutka to the amusingly named Zugdidi. The border town for the breakaway republic of Abkhazia.
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